In Skye - 27 August
What a day! Having Sunny Suzie around is always a delight! Despite the weather forecasts, she always manages to bring out the sunshine!
The ferry crossing was excellent. Thinking that we’d find ourselves surrounded by all our fellow passengers at every beauty spot, we hurried straight to our first destination, Armadale Castle. We thought that Bolton Castle might have spoiled us for all subsequent castles we visited, but each one had special attributes that made it different.
The MacDonalds arrived in Skye from the Southern Hebrides in the 15th Century. They occupied castles at Dunscaith and Knock, both within a few miles of Armadale and Duntulm castle at the north end of Skye. From the 1650’s the MacDonald chiefs stayed at Armadale as well. From the 1700’s onwards, it was used first as a dower house and then rented out to others. Flora MacDonald of Bonnie Prince Charlie fame was married at Armadale on the 6th November 1750. Around 1790 Lord MacDonald returned to build a new mansion house. With these exciting new beginnings and the start of the plantings that are visible today round the gardens, Armadale was, and still is, a demonstration of the wealth and lifestyle of the landed aristocracy. In 1815 the Mansion House was extended to form Armadale Castle, designed by the architect James Gillespie Graham. In 1855 fire destroyed much of the original house which was replaced by the central section designed by David Bryce.
In 1925 the Macdonald family moved to a smaller house leaving the castle to the wind and rain. Today the Gillespie Graham section is a sculptured ruin and garden. With the staircase and façade remaining, it is often used for wedding ceremonies. Housed in the original mansion circa 1790 are the Somerled Rooms; a unique conference and wedding facility.
The Clan Donald has exercised a powerful influence on Highland history. Translated literally as the children of Donald it was named after its founder, Donald until forfeiture of the Lordship in 1493, when the Scottish King took the title away. Even then the influence of Clan Donald survives. The seven main branches of the Clan (Antrim, Ardnamurchan, Ranald, Glencoe, Glengarry, Keppoch and Sleat) held extensive estates from Ulster to Skye. Gradually these lands were sold or confiscated. In 1971 the last remaining lands to be held by one of the Clan chiefs came up for sale. These were the lands in Skye of which Armadale is the heart. They were purchased by a charitable trust, the Clan Donald Land Trust, founded and now supported by Clan Donald members worldwide. Clan Donald is still the largest Clan in Scotland. Descendants of the thousands of MacDonalds who emigrated make it the largest in the world.
The gardens were lovely
and the views that the occupants of the Castle must have experienced across the ocean were splendid.
We decided to play the day by ear and stop whenever the opportunities presented themselves. Our route was through Portree, and right round the Trotternish peninsula, before ending up in Dunvegan for the night.
We had to stop and photograph the tiny lighthouse at Isle Ornsay
before passing through the wonderful Cuillin mountains, which looked particularly splendid with the passing clouds
When the Cuillin mountains are wreathed in low cloud, creating ever-changing eerie forms looming over the landscape, they're felt to be at their most mysterious and Skye at its most characteristic. The word Skye means ‘island of mists’ – derived from the old Norse word ‘sky’, meaning a cloud and ‘ey’, an island.
The Cuillins, perhaps the most spectacular mountains in Britain, are visible from every point in Skye and their lonely splendour has played its part in creating the island’s myths and legends.
We watched the Ferry approaching Raasay.
So much of the landscape reminded us of New Zealand. Had it not been for the almost continuous purple heather covering the hills, one could have been forgiven for believing that we’d been transported back there! This young pine forest certainly reminded us of home.
Until we came across sights that were completely unique to Skye like the Mealt Falls at Staffin
and the minute cottages containing authentic memories of bygone years contained at the Isle of Skye Museum at Kilmuir.
Close by is the cemetery where Flora MacDonald, Bonnie Prince Charlie’s saviour, was buried.
I wonder if you remember the story? Early on a June morning in 1746, Flora MacDonald was woken by her cousin, Neil, with the dramatic request that she help save his companion, the fugitive Bonnie Prince Charlie – Prince Charles Edward Stuart – the young Pretender to the Throne.
He’d been pursued relentlessly for three months following the defeat of his Highland army at Culloden. Now on the island of South Uist, a daring plan was necessary if he were to escape the Government troops and make the perilous journey to Skye. Flora first obtained passes for her manservant and her fictitious maid, Betty Burke, the disguised Prince Charles. Knowing they faced certain death if they were caught. Flora, her cousin Neil, the Prince and a party of oarsmen then set off on the evening of 28 June.
Having been fired on by soldiers from the Skye shore, they eventually landed to the north of the island after fifteen hours at sea. The small party made for Portree where they made their farewells and parted. Flora and the Prince were never to meet again.
In 1774, Flora and her husband Alan, and two of their five sons, left Skye where their farm income had fallen and set sail for North Carolina. Almost immediately after settling on a plantation, the family became caught up in the unrest leading to the American War of Independence. Alan and their two sons joined the British but their fight was short-lived. Alan was captured and held for two years during which time the loyal Flora refused to take the Oath of Allegiance to the North Carolina Congress and the family plantation was confiscated as a result.
After a brief reunion, Alan rejoined the army and in 1779 Flora decided to visit her homeland. At sea their ship was attacked by French pirates and during the skirmish, Flora fell and broke her arm. She was in pain for the rest of her life.
Flora and her husband were reunited on Skye in 1784. Both had suffered physically from their adventures and from the loss of two sons on active service. Their last years were peaceful - they could look back with pride on lives of courage and loyalty.
In 1788 Prince Charles died in Rome. A little over two years later, Flora too passed away. At her funeral, thousands came to pay homage. Wrapped in the sheet from the Prince’s bed she had kept for 44 years, Flora was laid to rest at Kilmuir on her beloved Skye.
Finally we arrived in Dunvegan after a really lovely day journeying round an island of remarkable beauty. We finished the day as we’d begun, exploring another castle, seat of the MacLeods where the current Chief is the 30th in line.
Dunvegan Castle has been the stronghold of the Chiefs of MacLeod for nearly 800 years and remains the ancestral home of the present Chief, Hugh MacLeod of MacLeod, the 30th of his line and family. Anyone who visits Dunvegan follows in the footsteps of the present Queen who visited the Castle in 1956. As indeed, did her parents, the then Duke and Duchess of York in 1933.
Dunvegan is steeped in history and Clan legend, providing a glimpse into its rich inheritance through the full spectrum of great Clan battles, legends, tragedies, murders most foul and great loves and romances. A MacLeod crest is inscribed with a bull’s head and the family motto, Hold Fast. This originates from one of the exploits of Malcolm, the third Chief, 1296-1370.
On our tour of the castle we learnt about the Fairy Flag, the sacred banner which is said to possess miraculous powers for the Clan. Legend has it that when the flag was unfurled in battle, the Clan MacLeod would defeat their enemies. The flag is displayed in the Castle surrounded by the fascinating legends of its mysterious origins.
Leaving the castle, we wandered through the beautiful gardens
and then it was high time to retire to our lovely hotel, The Tables Hotel and Restaurant, Main Street, Dunvegan IV55 8WA – bookings@tableshotel.co.uk which we’d highly recommend, although it was on the expensive side at £77 a night for the two of us.
