In the Camargue - 20 May 2008

 

The next day we set off to explore the Camargue.  The Rhone delta is responsible for the formation of the 346,000 acres of wetlands, pastures, dunes, and salt flats.  The tamarisk tree is plentiful and wildlife abounds - egrets, flamingoes (although I confess that my photo wasn’t taken nearly as close as this one),

 

 

small white arab-like horses (ridden by guardians or cowboys who traditionally live in thatched huts,

 

 

and black bulls, which are bred for the bull contests.  Fortunately, the bulls are not killed in the bull contests but have red rosettes plucked from between their horns with a hook. 

 

 

We noticed that much of the land was planted in rice.  We were told later that, because the rice grows in salt, it is considered to be very special.  Salt is by far the largest harvest of the Camargue.  Throughout the summer, huge brine pans evaporate and the crystals are heaped into small hills.  As the water evaporates, the crystals mingle with the carcases of shrimps and the salt takes on a pink tinge. Here you can see the salt hills in the distance from the ramparts of Aigues-Mortes.

 

 

To reach the Camargue, we passed through Arles.  Its position on the Rhône makes it an historic gateway to the Camargue.  We walked round the city and saw the roman remains, such as its amphitheatre

 

 

(where there are summer black bull contests), and the roman theatre which stages the Arles Festival each year. My personal opinion of Arles is not all that flattering, however.  It’s very old but, unlike the buildings in Montpellier, very little restoration work seems to have taken place - yet.

 

Leaving Arles, we drove to Les Saintes Maries de la Mer on the coast.  Its only redeeming feature appeared to be a statue of a bull in the centre with a guardian and his horse and hook.  The town itself was hideously covered in litter which was being blown all over the place by a strong wind.  So anxious were we to leave it quickly, we forgot to look at the church!  We took a quick look at the beach but the wind blew the sand about so much that it became unpleasant.

 

 

Turning west, we passed through Aigues-Mortes (Place of Dead Waters).  Aígues-Mortes was established by Louis XI to consolidate his power over the Mediterranean.  It’s a well preserved walled town amongst the salt marshes of the Petite Camargue.  It still has its impressive defences as it was once an important port.  It's now five miles from the sea and is rather tacky.