In Edinburgh and St Andrews - 2 September 2008
Edinburgh falls into two main areas, divided by Princes Street, the city’s most famous thoroughfare and commercial centre. The old town straddles the ridge between the castle and the Palace of Holyroodhouse, with most of the city’s mediaeval city clustered in the alleys of the Grass Market and Royal Mile areas. The new town to the north evolved after 1767 when wealthy merchants expanded the city beyond the mediaeval walls. The district contains Britain’s finest concentration of Georgian architecture.
Standing on a basalt core of an extinct volcano, Edinburgh Castle is an assemblage of buildings dating from the 12th to the 20th centuries, reflecting its changing role as fortress, royal palace, military garrison and state prison. It is Scotland’s premier visitor attraction with panoramic views of one of Europe’s finest capital cities.
We arrived there on the day after the fireworks concert at the end of the annual Edinburgh Festival so there was heaps of scaffolding and unattractive blue stands in front of the Castle which restricted our ability to take lovely photos at the entrance.
Edinburgh Castle is a proud and majestic symbol of Scotland, famous the world over.
The Castle only has one small entrance which used to have five gates within it, which has made it almost totally impregnable.
Though there is evidence of bronze-age occupation of the site, the original fortress was built by the t6th century Northumberland King, Edwin, from whom the city takes its name. The Castle was favourite royal residence until the union of crowns in 1603, after which the King lived in England. After the union of Parliaments in 1707 the Scottish regalia were walled up in the Palace for over 100 years. The Castle is now the zealous possessor of the so-called stone of destiny, a relic of ancient Scottish Kings which was seized by the English from the Scone Palace, Perthshire, and not returned until 1996. The stone is, however, and will continue to be, returned to England on the occasion of any coronation.
The military status of the Castle is most evident by the presence of Governor’s Residence. He is present for every occasion when royalty is at the Castle.
The Scottish crown is on display in the Ancient Crown room within the Palace. The crown was restyled by James V of Scotland in 1540. Unfortunately we were't allowed to take any photos inside the Scottish Crown Jewels area - not surprisingly! Mary Queen of Scots gave birth to James VI in this 15th century Palace where the Scottish regalia are on display.
The Great Hall with its restored open timber roof dates from the 15th century and was the meeting place of the Scottish Parliament until 1639.
The Prisons of War recalls the era when the castle held captured sailors from enemy nations such as the newly independent USA, France, Germany and many other countries.
We walked through the prisons and tried to imagine life as a prisoner.
What their meals would be like.
And their sleeping arrangements
Out in the sunshine again, we took in the amazing views from the walls over the city. And
took a look at the One o’Clock Gun which, presumably, is fired at One o’clock each day – although we didn’t hear it because I think we were down in the dungeons at that point!
As we had two nights in Edinburgh, we decided to drive out to St Andrews as we could afford to get back late.
Scotland’s oldest university town and one-time ecclesiastical capital, St Andrews, is now a shrine to golfers all over the world. Scotland’s national game of golf was pioneered on the sandy links around St Andrews. The earliest records date from 1457 when golf was banned by James II on the grounds that it was interfering with his subjects’ archery practice! Mary Queen of Scots enjoyed the game and was berated in 1568 for playing straight after the murder of her husband Darnley. Suzi stood near the clubs of someone just about to drive off the first tee, which was the nearest we got to seeing if we could get a game!
The seven courses are in the most wonderful position, situated beside the most beautiful stretch of coastline.
St Andrew’s three main streets and numerous cobbled alleys full of crooked house fronts, dignified university buildings and mediaeval churches converge on the venerable ruins of the 12th century cathedral. Once the largest in Scotland, the cathedral was later pillaged of stones to build the town.
St Andrews was the focal point of the Scottish church throughout the middle ages. During that time many buildings were constructed and monuments erected on a scale of magnificence unequalled anywhere else in Scotland. Fortunately many of them survive today, at least in part.
The remains of what was Scotland’s largest and most magnificent church still show how impressive St Andrews Cathedral must have been in its prime. The Cathedral, sited on a headland to the east of the town, was begun about 1160 and grew to become the longest and greatest church in the land.
Beside it a Priory was built for the Augustinian canons serving the Cathedral. The Cathedral was built close by its predecessor, St Rules Church, dominated by its lofty tower. Photos couldn't begin to capture the size and magnificence of what we say, but this plan shows the relationship between the two buildings.
A great precinct wall, the most impressive in Scotland, enclosed the whole sprawling cathedral complex.
St Andrews cathedral at 140 metres in length was by far the longest church in Scotland and on a par with the major cathedrals in England, such as York and Durham.
On a headland to the north of St Andrews stand the ruins of the town’s castle, the main residence of the bishops and archbishops of St Andrews, the focal point of the Church in mediaeval Scotland. It was built for the bishops of the town in 1200. Suzi bravely explored the underground 16th century siege mine and countermine but I decided to keep my feet firmly above ground and thoroughly enjoyed the ancient magnificence and stunning position of the Castle.
And to finish off our travels beautifully, we took the coast road home and stopped off on our way back into Edinburgh at The Ship Inn beside the Harbour at Elie for a lovely dinner.